Removing Black Streaks From White Cargo Trailer Then Protecting Paint

fisherman416z

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I have a one year old white 7x20 cargo trailer that sits outdoors in the midwest. It now has some light black streaks from the alluminum roof where rain water runs down onto the side panels. I'm sure these aluminum skin panels are a single stage paint.

Looking to remove the black streaks and protect the paint.

In looking at older posts on this forum and others 3D Speed HD was one product suggested.

Questions:
1) Is there a quality shampoo that i can use on this single stage paint. No gloss or enhancers just to get it clean and ready for detailing?

2) Do I need to use a black streak remover product prior to 3D Speed? Suggestions?

3) If not, when using the 3D Speed on a D/A polisher should I use a towel to clean the pad so I am not grinding grime into the paint?

4) Should I top the 3D Speed with anything?

5) After it is clean and protected. For future washes is there a shampoo suggested?

Thank You!

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I have a one year old white 7x20 cargo trailer that sits outdoors in the midwest. It now has some light black streaks from the alluminum roof where rain water runs down onto the side panels. I'm sure these aluminum skin panels are a single stage paint.

Looking to remove the black streaks and protect the paint.

Common problem.


In looking at older posts on this forum and others 3D Speed HD was one product suggested.

Questions:
1) Is there a quality shampoo that i can use on this single stage paint. No gloss or enhancers just to get it clean and ready for detailing?

We carry two soaps at Dr. Beasley's, both are "pure" soaps, that is all they do is clean, they do not add any glossing or protection ingredients. Besides that, I'm sure there are other brands with pure soaps, just do a little searching.

For the PREP WASH - you could use Dawn Dishwashing Soap - this is a tick strong for a maintenance wash, (after you've detailed the trailer), but to prep the trailer, it would work just fine.


2) Do I need to use a black streak remover product prior to 3D Speed? Suggestions?

I've removed black streaks from both fiberglass gelcoat and single stage paint via polishing. I don't remember ever doing it with a dedicated, spray-on, spray-off liquid of any sort.

The thing about black streaks on porous surfaces, like single stage paint and gelcoat, is because these surfaces are porous, the stain goes INTO the paint or gelcoat, it's not just sitting on the surface. Thus, machine polishing, because it removes a tiny portion of the paint or gelcoat, will tend to work better than spraying some type of chemical cleaner onto the stain which normally only helps to remove the stain on the actual surface.

Machine polishing will also remove the oxidation, which is normal for single stage paint on trailers like this, while restoring a glossy finish.


3) If not, when using the 3D Speed on a D/A polisher should I use a towel to clean the pad so I am not grinding grime into the paint?

Yes, you can scrape off any residues that build-up on the face of the pad with a nylon toothbrush or by wiping with a terrycloth towel, like a normal home-use hand towel.

There's a number of ways to use a terrycloth towel to clean off the face of a foam buffing pad, here's a video from the year 2012, (before iPhone microphones were invented, so turn the volume up), that shows one way to do this when using simple polishers like the Porter Cable 7424 or the Harbor Freight 6" DA 8mm polisher. This approach does NOT work for long-stroke orbital polishers.

If using a gear-driven orbital polisher or a rotary, you can bunch the hand towel up and hold it against the spinning pad and this will work to remove any gunk off the face of the pad, or again - a medium bristle toothbrush.




4) Should I top the 3D Speed with anything?

3D Speed is what's called a cleaner/wax. Another name would be an AIO or All-in-One. These types of products do 3 things in a single step.

  1. Compound
  2. Polish
  3. Protect

Because they are a blend of different types of products, these types of cleaner/waxes or AIOs do a great job, but because they are abrading the surface at the same time they are supposed to be leaving behind some type of protection ingredient, they don't do either very well. But they actuall do a good job, they just don't leave a lot of protection behind.

After using a cleaner/wax or AIO - you can always apply a DEDICATED wax or sealant. Dedicated means a pure wax or pure sealant, a product that only protects, it offers zero cleaning ability.


5) After it is clean and protected. For future washes is there a shampoo suggested?

I would recmmend a pure car wash soap, a soap that only cleans, does not add anything. The problem with car wash soaps that add something, for example historically there's always been Wash-N-Waxes, that often times contain some form of liquid carnauba of silicone, is that each time you use the product, you can get a build-up of whatever ingredient is being left behind. Not a bad thing, but at some point, you'll need to re-polish to remove the build-up and also any oxidation.

For what you're working on - there's no surefire ONE AND DONE or SET IT AND FORGET it type product. The closest thing you can get to one-and-done is a ceramic coating. And you can't use Speed as a prep for a ceramic coating because Speed contains a wax, plus my guess is some silicones to make wipe-off easy. The wax and the silicones will prevent the ceramic coating from making a proper bond.

If you want to use a ceramic coating, you will have to use a dedicated polish - that is a product that ONLY polishes, doesn't leave anything behind.




Machine polishing would be the route I would go. It should remove the streaks as well as any oxidation and dirt build up on the exterior.


Mike Phillips
 
Mike,
A big Thank you for your reply and insight!

A couple of follow up thoughts and questions:

My goal is to have a clean cargo trailer that looks presentable and good from a distance(not worried about scratches). I will probably have this trailer for 10+ years.

I assume the paint thickness on these panels is quite thin? Therefore, I may want to use an all in one product sparingly (once per year or every two years). Your thoughts on how often to use a all in one for this type of project?

Do I need a topper wax or sealant? What would you recommend? (easy to use on this large surface area)

Again, thank you!
 
Mike,
A big Thank you for your reply and insight!

A couple of follow up thoughts and questions:

My goal is to have a clean cargo trailer that looks presentable and good from a distance(not worried about scratches). I will probably have this trailer for 10+ years.

Very realistic plans and expectations.



I assume the paint thickness on these panels is quite thin? Therefore, I may want to use an all in one product sparingly (once per year or every two years). Your thoughts on how often to use a all in one for this type of project?

You are correct. The paint on these types of things is very thin, I think it's electrostatically applied. You want to follow the sage advice,

Use the least aggressive process to get the job done



Do I need a topper wax or sealant? What would you recommend? (easy to use on this large surface area)

Again, thank you!

Yes, if it were me, I would apply a topper for better protection and longer lasting protection.

I have not used any conventional waxes or synthetic paint sealants for some time, most of my work is all ceramic coatings.

While the 3D Speed works great as a one-step type product, the protection doesn't last long, and I was never impressed with any of the 3D waxes for longevity. Even their ceramic coating failed after a few years.

Perhaps take a look at any synthetic paint sealant from Meguiar's, like the M21 Synthetic Sealant. This is as good as any conventional paint protection product. It's basically Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax, as I wrote the concept paper for NXT Tech Wax for the Consumer Line, back in 2003 and this chemical formula was later used in the Professional Line, (the bottles with the numbers in the name), aka M21.

Besides that, our Bead Hero is a spray-on ceramic coating that offers great protection and gloss plus excellent water beading. It should be applied to a surface free from wax, but because the 3D Speed leaves so little protection behind, you could probably use it over the 3D Speed.

This is a real spray-on, ceramic coating. This means, you need to avoid getting any overspray onto any surface where you miss wiping any excess off. It will fully dry and harden after about 24 hours and then it will not wipe-off.

Here's a recent TV Commercial we made for My Classic Car, with Dennis Gage, showcasing Bead Hero. Note this is a 30 second commercial, so we had to pack-in a LOT of information in a very short amount of time. In the near future, we will release an extended format video showing this product on the 1962 Corvette you'll see in the TV commercial.




Hope the above helps, be sure all your microfiber wiping towels are clean, and uncontaminated to avoid accidental swirls and scratches when wiping anything off anything. (my normal mantra)



Mike
 
Mike, thank you for your detailed explanation!

Over, the last couple of weeks i have been thinking of your statement regarding ceramic coatings will be the longest lasting "one and done" type of product i could use for this cargo trailer with thin paint. The fewest amount of times i have to polish it during it's life time will be best. I, however, have no experience with ceramic coatings.

Further Questions:

1) How long will Bead Hero Last?

2) Do you think the black stains that will eventually show up after using Bead Hero will be easier to remove by washing?

3) What would be the ideal polish (with no wax/sealant) to use prior to Bead Hero to remove the black streaks that we spoke of on sides of trailer.

4) What wash soap would you recommend?

5) Do products like Bead Hero need a topper after washing?

Thank you!
 
Mike, thank you for your detailed explanation!

Over, the last couple of weeks i have been thinking of your statement regarding ceramic coatings will be the longest lasting "one and done" type of product i could use for this cargo trailer with thin paint. The fewest amount of times i have to polish it during it's life time will be best. I, however, have no experience with ceramic coatings.

Totally get it. Thin paint means being proactively extra careful.

Let me take a stab at the below,


Further Questions:

1) How long will Bead Hero Last?

The Dr. Beasley's website states this product can last up to one year. What I always tell people is,

How long ANYTHING from ANY BRAND lasts comes down to how the surface treated is touched.

And by the word touched, I mean the things that normally touch the paint and for most of us, this would include,

  • Wash mitts
  • Drying towels
  • Microfiber wiping towels

And of course, a quality soap of some type. The idea being, there's always very cynical people in the world that when you say a product can last up to a year, they will interpret this to mean,

The finish quality will look, act and perform one year from now, exactly as it looked, acted and performed immediately after application.

But this is nonsense. Nothing looks as good as a just-detailed-vehicle, whatever it is. Then with exposure to the UV rays from the sun, a horrible force for accelerating deterioration to anything outside. Just look at any exterior black plastic cladding on modern cars only a few years old and you'll see this plastic fade and the Zebra Stripes start showing up, this is all from the UV rays from the sun.

When it comes to products like Bead Hero, instead of applying once and then waiting for one year to do something, it's better to wash and re-apply while the finish is still looking good. Don't wait until time has taken its toll and now you need to polish again. Any surface looks better an lasts longer with regular maintenance.

I'm not trying to stop you from using Bead Hero or any similar product, just have realistic expectations. And products like Bead Hero are relatively fast and easy to apply, especially to large, flat surfaces. Just keep in mind, if you get any overspray onto a surface and don't spread it out and then remove the excess, the product will dry hard and solid and then the only way to get it off is to polish it off. This is why in the short video above, I demonstrated spraying the product AWAY from the car. Mist it onto a towel, use this towel to apply and a second, third and if needed a fourth clean, dry towel to remove.

I think that because the majority of the surfaces you need to treat are vertical, there will be less wear-n-tear from everything, unlike horizontal panels exposed full-on to everything.



2) Do you think the black stains that will eventually show up after using Bead Hero will be easier to remove by washing?

I would think so, but you'll have to find out with time. Definitely the better you seal the single stage paint on this trailer, the less able the black streaks will be able to penetrate INTO the single stage paint. For example, the next day, apply a second layer at least to the upper portions of the panels where black streaks show up the most.


3) What would be the ideal polish (with no wax/sealant) to use prior to Bead Hero to remove the black streaks that we spoke of on sides of trailer.

My experience is it don't take much. The type of tool and pad will also be a factor, but I would think that a fine cut, to medium cut polish with a foam "polishing" pad, should remove the black streaks and restore a clean, smooth, shiny surface.



4) What wash soap would you recommend?


A pure pH balanced car wash soap from a reputable brand. Avoid anything that ADDS something, like carnauba wax, or fill-in-the-blank.

I don't like to ever come off as a sales guy because I'm not, I'm a how-to guy, but since working for Dr. Beasley's, they car wash soaps work great. And even though they were not specifically formulated for use in foam cannons or foam guns, the car wash soaps create incredible foam when used with these tools and also plenty of suds when you simply do a normal bucket wash.

You can see the level of foam in the below video.




Like our detailing detergent for washing microfiber towels, these soaps are very concentrated. About an ounce or two, depending upon the wash load size, and our detailing detergent creates a ton of soapy wash suds. I caution everyone in our classes because as the class moves along, I tend to keep laundry going to make sure we always have plenty of clean, dry towels for all the cars we bring in for our classes. For example, my next class will have 8 cars for the students to detail, this means we'll need a LOT of clean, dry towels.

5) Do products like Bead Hero need a topper after washing?

No, but immediately after washing and drying, this is a great time to even do a quicky application. But "no".


Thank you!

I never know if I help much or not, but I do wish you the best of luck in this detailing endeavor.


Mike
 
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