313 Pictures - July 12th 2025 1-Day Paint Correction and Ceramic Coating Class

[Mike Phillips]

Continued...

This is the second car so far the class has trained on for how to install a ceramic coating.

First Step - Apply the Dr. Beasley's Paint Coating Builder

Second Step - Apply the Nano-Resin MX Ceramic Coating

Final Results!

Remember the dirty tires?

Machine scrubbed followed by machine applying the Dr. Beasley's Tire Conditioner

Detailometer Before & After Readings

Before

After

Considering this is an OLD single stage paint job and there's a lot of visible porosity in the paint, I'd say the class did a remarkable job for taking this paint job to it's maximum potential.



Mike

 

[Mike Phillips]

Continued...

Budget Detailing Package - 1-Step Ceramic AIO

At this stage of the day, the class as learned, two primary packages for a detailing business or approaches for Do-it-Yourselfers.

1. Show Car Detailing or Multiple Step Detailing - 1969 Dodge Dart GTS Convertible
2. Mid-Range Package - 1934 Chevy Sedan Streetrod

The third primary topic for this 1-day class will be how to do a 1-step paint correction using the Dr. Beasley's Z1 Primer, which is a ceramic AIO or All-in-One. The term All-in-One, means a product that will,

1. Compound - Remover below surface defects.
2. Polish - Create gloss, shine, clarity and richness-of-color.
3. Protect - Leave behind a layer of protection.

The key thing that you need to learn, is that when you offer an entry level package to a customer, you need to set their expectations accordingly. Doing a one-step AIO paint correction process to a vehicle is in most cases, (depends on how severe and how neglected the paint is), will not remove 100% of all the defects. A good one-step AIO will remove all the shallow defects, but the deeper defects will remain.

If you, when detailing your own cars, or your customers, if you're detailing for a business, want 100% defect removal, this would be the FIRST TOPIC we covered this morning, Show Car Detailing. And when it comes to detailing as a business, you are always happy to do Show Car Detailing, BUT it will COST MORE. This is what most new professional detailers don't explain at the start of the process and when they don't do this, it can lead to low customer satisfaction. So be sure to educate any potential customer that you have multiple packages to fit every budget but the more steps involved, the higher the cost. A Budge Detail is just that, it costs less but you're not going to get the same results as you would from a Show Car Detailing package or a Mid-Range Detailing package.

Training Car - 1977 Pontiac Grand Prix SJ - Only 50,000 original miles
Our good friend, Ed Dedick, the Operations Manager for the American Muscle Car Museum, in Melbourne, Florida, personally delivered the 1977 Pontiac to Training Center here in Stuart, Florida.

Loading up at the American Muscle Car Museum
(see the HUGE Solar Panels behind the car? These are for powering the museum)

Arriving to Dr. Beasley's Training Center in sunny, Stuart, Florida

Here's the Pontiac after unloading from the car hauler. Sitting here in the SHADE - the paint looks pretty good!

Photo Documentation - Before Condition
After moving the car inside, I took some before pictures to document how the car really looks.

Even the plastic taillight lenses are filled with swirls and scratches!

I wasn't sure what this was or what caused it - but the class fixed it!

Holograms
The wispy looking lines or patterns are the tale-tale sign of holograms from the misuse of a rotary polisher.

I think we can all agree, the true condition of the paint is completely different than how the paint looked with the car parked outside under cloudy skies.




Mike

 

[Mike Phillips]

Continued...

How to do a One-Step AIO Test Spot
Here's the results from using Dr. Beasley's Z! Ceramic AIO on the top of the driver's side fender. This was done using an orbital polisher with a white, Buff and Shine EdgeGuard foam polishing pad. I call this class session, FREE FOR ALL - which means the students can choose and use any brand or type of orbital polisher. They can test out as many different types of polishers they are interested in, or spend more time with polishers they've already used up to this point.

Looks great!
The AFTER picture shows dramatically improved finish quality by removing swirls and oxidation and restoring the full richness-of-color and all from a single one-step process.

It's Go Time!
After demonstrating the correct technique for using a one-step AIO, I turned the class loose and then continuously walked around the car monitoring the students and their progress.

This is a Text Book Example of how to correctly hold the RUPES Cordless BigFoot 15
In my classes, I teach you how to use the Power Lock button to lock the tool in the run position and then move your hand to the back of the tool to both hold the tool and support the weight of the rechargeable battery. It takes some practice as most people start out by simply depressing the speed trigger and then holding the tool by the handle - which works, but once you train yourself to use the Power Lock button and move your hand to the back of the tool, you'll always use this technique.

Here you can see some using FLEX cordless polishes while others are using RUPES cordless polishers - for this class session - it's all up to you.

Another Text Book Example of how to correctly hold the RUPES Cordless BigFoot 15

Luis started out using the RUPES cordless BigFoot 15 and then compared to the FLEX 15mm cordless Finisher.

Dynabrade Renny Doyle Series DB8 | Geared Dual-Action Polisher
Brian brought his Renny Doyle Gear-Driven Polisher all the way from Texas to use in the class. I tested it out myself and was impressed that it's smooth and powerful.

Last things last - after tackling all the paint, the students then machine polished the chrome bumpers.

Here's the final results!
Not perfect, but damn close and remember, this was from a one-step process using a ceramic AIO.

Three Cars - Three Popular and Profitable Topics - in One Class - in One Day
This is why I say our classes are the MOST hands-on detailing classes on planet Earth. No other class comes close, but my guess is moving forward, others will copy my class format - not because of me - but because this format works and its popular with people that learn better by DOING versus sitting in a CHAIR.

This is also why we start our classes EARLY! You get MAXIMUM hands-on training - Zero sitting.

Mike

 

[Mike Phillips]

Continued...

Before and After - Documented
I also took MATCHING PICTURES to show the AFTER difference like I did to show the BEFORE condition. Just in case there's any doubting Thomases out there. LOL

Nice work everyone!


Mike

 

[Mike Phillips]

Continued...

We took before and after readings using the Detailometer


Before

After

For a ONE-STEP process, these are dramatic results.



Mike

 

[Mike Phillips]

Continued...

Besides the 3 primary packages or approaches to detailing cars, we also covered Extreme Headlight Correction. I borrowed my business neighbors Ford Escape as the plastic headlights are so far neglected, they've turned yellow with oxidation.

Also just to note - these are OEM Clear Coated Headlights.
You cannot tell due to the mass oxidation. As we started to sand, we could see where the OEM Clear Coating had degraded and left a jagged line where coating was present and coating was missing.

The Mike Phillips Method for FAST Headlight Correction
I've never seen anyone else do this or teach this until I started teaching it at our classes. Feel free to borrow this technique if you like.


Tape-off and Protect
When sanding headlights using LOW GRIT discs or sandpaper, it's important to place at least 2 layers of protective masking tape over any nearby paint, plastic or chrome surfaces.

Why?

Because if you accidently sand the nearby paint, plastic or chrome, it can be pretty much impossible to recover from the damage.

Pop the Hood
This is a simple technique that completely removes any paint away from the headlight and thus the sanding process and that is to simply pop the hood.

Mirka Abralon Foam Backed Sanding Discs
The lowest grit I had on hand was 500 grit - I wish I would have obtained some lower grits like 180 or 360 grit. For most headlights, 500 is more than enough to do the first step. But for headlights this neglected WITH an OEM Clearcoat over the headlights that has failed, then it would be faster to sand off 100% of the OEM Clearcoat using lower grits like 360, maybe even 180.

For this process, the class will machine sand starting with 500 grit and ending with 4000 grit. In reality, anyone talented with a wool pad on a rotary polisher with a quality compound can easily remove 2000 grit sanding marks out of plastic headlights. What my normal practice is - show the MOST steps and then let everyone figure out how many steps to do when they return to their detailing world.

It's Go TIME!
After a quick demonstration, I turned the class loose. By sanding with 5 different grit levels, this ALSO provided plenty of hands-on time for each person to learn how to machine sand headlights using a rotary polisher.

And here's the secret to sanding with a rotary polisher without GOUGING the plastic and that is to use 2-3 foam interface pads between the backing plate and the sanding disc.

The design of these Ford Escape headlights made sanding challenging but the class powered through.

See the foam interface pads?

Teamwork makes the dream work!

Removing the Sanding Marks
After all the sanding step, the next thing to do was to use Dr. Beasley's CoreCut with a wool pad on a rotary polisher to cut or remove the sanding marks. Sorry, no pictures but this was in fact the next step.



Removing Holograms
Fiber pads on a rotary polisher ALWAYS leave holograms in the surface, even headlights. To remove the holograms and perfect the final results, the class followed the rotary step using gear-driven orbital polishers with Dr. Beasley's NSP 150 with Buff and Shine yellow EdgeGuard foam polishing pads. If you don't do this, not only will the holograms be visible when the car is outside in bright sunlight, but you will also leave the plastic surface MORE OPEN and this leads to faster deterioration.

Seal the Deal
After the polishing step, the class then used the Dr. Beasley's Headlight Coating Kit to seal the headlights and protect them from UV rays and the elements.

And here's the final results!

Now these headlights not only look better, but driving at night will be much safer.

Not bad for severely neglected headlights that are 20 years old!

Great work everyone!


Mike

 

[Mike Phillips]

Continued...

Pad Cleaning
The class went through 60 buffing pads. I apologize that the class went long, (teaching how to machine dry sand at the very end of the class), and as such, we didn't go over how to use the Grit Guard Pad Washer to clean pads. The good news is, we have a video that shows EXACTLY how to use the Grit Guard Pad Washer and I'll share it below.

Here's Red Paint from the 1934 Chevy Sedan Streetrod

Years of dirt staining, road grime, traffic film and clearcoat oxidation after buffing out the 1969 Dodge Dart GTS

This is just NSP Primer build-up after machine polishing the clearcoated 1969 Dodge Dart GTS

Some dirty 1" RUPES buffing pads - mostly used around the intricate areas around the windows on the 1934 Chevy and also around the side panels of the engine cowl.

Buffing the Brightwork on Classic Cars - Chrome - Stainless Steel - Aluminum - Nickel
I purposefully took BEFORE pictures of the trim around the windshield. The GREAT you see on the below two pads is oxidation, tarnish and traffic film removed off the brighwork as the class buffed out the car.

How to use the Grit Guard Pad Washer
The process is easy, first spray the face of the pad with some PRS - aka Griot's Garage Pad Renewing Solution. Then I scrub and agitate the face of the pad with a nylon brush. Next I place the pad on a rotary polisher and then insert the pad into the pad washer, close the Splash Guard Lid and then run the polisher at low speed as I pump the pad up and down against the Grit Guard Insert. Next lift the pad up a little and bring the rotary to high speed and let some of the water escape the pad via centrifugal force.

Then I throw groups of similar pads in the Kenmore 600 and wash using Dr. Beasley's Fresh Start Garage detailing detergent.

Air Dry
After washing, I air dry by placing the clean, but wet pads on a large table. See the nylon brush? This is normally sold as a tire cleaning brush but I really like it for scrubbing the face of foam pads during use and after the detail. Get one (or two), and thank me later.

Good combo - Pad Renewing Solution and Fresh Start Garage

And to provide context for the GRAY looking stuff on the yellow buffing pads,

See the gray color on this pad?

Here's where the gray came from,

The class used Dr. Beasley's NSP 150 with the yellow foam polishing pads to buff out all the brightwork and now all the brightwork gleams with clarity and brilliance.

Old Versus New Car Trim
With old, neglected cars, you buff out the brightwork. With new cars, you tape-off the plastic trim. This is one difference and one reason I like buffing out all cars - no stupid plastic trim to tape-off. Just to note, for SHOW CHROME or any car with RESTORED brightwork, I don't recommend buffing this condition of trim because when it's PERFECT looking, one little scratch will stand out like a Sore Thumb - so be care and know what you're doing.



How to Clean Buffing Pads
This shows multiple ways to clean wool pads, but the process is pretty much the same for foam and microfiber pads.

Here's my how-to article

How to Clean Wool Buffing Pads


Here's the video that goes with the article. The portion that goes over how to setup and use the Grit Guard Pad Washer starts at the 6:10 time stamp.

Mike

 

[Mike Phillips]

Do your Research
Before you sign up for any class - be sure they have the supplies to actually hold a true hands-on class. You might want to look and see if they tell you or show you what you're going to get to train on and hope it's not demo hoods and test panels.

A full array of NSP Primers and just to note, every car came out phenomenal using only Dr. Beasley's NSP Primers

A full array of Buff and Shine EdgeGuard Foam Buffing pads and also Wool Cutting Pads

A full array of batteries and battery charges and the power to power all the chargers and ALL THE CORDED tools.

A full array of RUPES polishers - there are $24,000.00 of all BRAND NEW RUPES polishers on these tool racks.

A full array of FLEX polishers - there's over $25,000.00 of FLEX tools on the tool racks
(There are also tools from Harbor Freight, Griot's Garage and Makita for the students to use)

Professional Grade Measurement Tools from Detailometer and Rhopoint

Wet Work Supplies
This class also included how to do an EXTREME PREP WASH, including,

• Wet Wash Engine Detail.
• Topical Glass Polishing.
• Machine scrubbing Tires.
• How to use a Pressure Washer and a Foam Cannon.
• How to do the Mechanical Decontamination process during the wet work.

The first tool you learn how to use - Rotary Polishers - followed by Orbital Polishers and LOTS of hands-on time with both types of polishers.

Sanding Supplies
This is my sanding supplies table, it has sanding supplies from, Nikken, Eagle Abrasives, 3M Trizact, Harbor Freight and Mirka Abralon.

ELECTRIC POWER!
Not only does it take a lot of supplies to hold a real hands-on class, a class where each person has their own tools, pads, products and towels, but it also takes a LOT of power. Our shop has a total of 66 - 110-volt electrical plug-ins and more than enough power to run 20 rotary polishers HARD and never blow a fuse.

Don't Miss Out!
The next and LAST 2-day class is Saturday, September 20th and Sunday, September 21st.

Click here to sign-up for the September 2-day class!

As I type, this class is almost sold out. So, if you want to take this class, get signed up sooner than later.

Questions? Shoot me a text or give me a call. 760-515-0444

I hope to see you at a future class!


Mike