Help please with clear

[Dsholes78]

Trying to do a spot repair in clear coat is nearly impossible for even a professional, let alone a novice. 99%, if not 100%, of professionals I know would recommend re-clearing the entire bumper.

With that said, if you dead set on a spot repair, I'd be sanding the repair area with something in the 600G to 1000G range, maybe 1500G at the outer edges of the blend area before applying the clear. 2500G is way to fine for what you're trying to do.

This is also a “rattle can special”

 

[Big Dave]

I attempted a clear coat repair on the hood of my 2011 FJ Cruiser about a year ago, with similar results. After some heavy rain I noticed a small bubble appearing, after it dried I barely touched it and it cracked and started to lift the surrounding clear. And it didn't even happen where I have stone chips, it happened in an area that seemed to be in good condition.

I didn't go the rattle can repair, it was a smallish spot barely an inch around, so I used a brush on, and in, clear coat. I brushed about 5 layers into it over a day or so till it had filled the hole, let it set for a couple more days, then wet sanded it down by hand till I thought it was level, it wasn't, I didn't notice till I polished it, but I wasn't too concerned as the spot was very visible because of metallic paint, I don't know if a spay clear would have been better. The clear started lifting within a couple of weeks anyway, the FJ lives outside anyway, so I masked off a suitable section of the hood and plastidipped it matte black, but a year later and the plastidip is lifting where the repair was, so I may just mask and spray it again, it's high enough that most people don't notice.

 

[MAXMAX]

It's definitely a very tricky process . I have seen it done . What have learned is patience , preparation and time for the paints to cure. I am sure weather has something to do with it also! Very warm weather weather doesn't help much either when applying!